Day out at Hakone

Friday 23 June 2023

Day 4

The alarm was set for 7am and we were both a little slow and sore, after yesterday’s mammoth walking effort, but we had a day in Hakone waiting. With everything packed and breakfast had, we walked to Shinjuku station and then made our way to the Odakyu line for our 1 hour 45min train ride. We were early, having booked an 830am spot, so had half an hour sitting on the platform. Once on the train, it was a pleasant ride through outer Tokyo and on towards Mt Fuji. There was plenty to keep us occupied out of the window. I was surprised to see only a few roof tops with solar panels. With such forward thinking technology, I expected to see more innovation in this space. 

We arrived at Hakone at 10.15am and found our way to the bus stop, before beginning our ascent into the town, via a narrow crowded road. I was fascinated by what we were seeing and wished we could be on foot to explore. 

As we made our way farther up the mountain, we became surrounded by forest and a thick fog, any chances of seeing Fuji today were squashed, we could barely see the road in front. We jumped off the bus at Amasake Tea House, a traditional house that has served travellers for hundreds of years. We partook in the traditional sweet rice and mould fermented tea and a selection of Mochi. It was just what we needed to warm us up and prepare us for the next bit, a walk on the traditional edo traders path. 

We joined some other walkers, two young Aussie girls and a European woman. Together we made the decision of which way to head and began the 1.5km walk through the forest. It was steep, slippery and uneven for much of the journey. Just what Paul’s ankles didn’t need. We were grateful that we made it to the bottom unscathed and we weren’t eaten by a bear. 

Once at Lake Ashi, we walked the main street and stopped in at an eatery for a delicious rice and chicken omelette. We continued on to the pier to find out about the next pirate ship departure. With that set, we walked the edge of the lake checking out the sights around us before finally boarding our pirate ship and sailing the length of Lake Ashi. The lake is surrounded by thick forested mountain. There were a few fisherman out, but it was pretty quiet for its size. 

We alighted the ship and joined the line for the cable car, finding the young Aussie girls. The cable car made its steep ascent up over the mountain, Mt Fuji, nowhere to be seen. We got off at the second stop where there is a sulphur mine. You could smell it and see the gasses rising before you got to the pit itself. This spot offers the opportunity to try black eggs. The eggs are cooked in the sulphuric water and it turns the shells black. We wandered and checked out the pit, before buying and trying the eggs. We went for a smoked variety, that was like eating smoked cheese. 

Back on the cable car, we descended down the other side of the mountain at quite a steep angle. Once at the station, we made our way though the building in search of the funicular rail. With the steep descent complete, we continued our journey on foot to the Hakone Open air museum. By now it was almost 4pm. We paid the 1400yen each and made our way around the various art pieces and the highly manicured grounds. There was some very interesting pieces and some that left you wondering what was seen in them, I guess everything is subjective. 

By now it was just starting to spit, we found the train line and ventured the 10min back to the original station. We were so exhausted, that we couldn’t bring ourselves to look for an onsen (spa), especially as Paul may be refused entry due to his tattoos. The main reason people come to Hakone, is to experience the hot spring spas, that are generated in the area. If we were to do this again, we would stay here for the night and enjoy the hospitality. Instead we were bundled onto the 5.40pm train and travelling back to Tokyo for 730pm.

We watched the sun disappear, marvelled at the mountain ranges, rivers, homes and cities. Before long it was dark and we were back at Shinjuku Station. With our wits gone we found an exit and then had to navigate the increased crowds and revellers out enjoying their Friday night. The place was buzzing with buskers and many young people. It made for an interesting walk around the outside of the station, until we found the familiar cat corner, with its giant 3d screen. This was always an entertaining place to stop and watch the various animations; cats, killer whales, whale sharks, space ships. Just speaks Japanese!

We ambled around the crowd down Godzilla Road, stopped in at the family mart for a microwave dinner, breakfast supplies, drinks and it was back to the room to fall down. Another epic day. Thank goodness it is a quiet one tomorrow.