Day 156 - Friday 2 June - The elusive Barramundi

Day 156

Friday

2 June 2017

Cooinda – Yellow Water – Gunlom – Edith Falls Free camp

Ka-ka-du du du. I have this song on repeat in my head, though I am not pushing pineapples or shaking any trees!

5.30am bzz bzz bzz Seriously! It’s an early one. It was still dark outside not me looking at the inside of my eyelids.  We were up as we had the 6.45am fishing charter to make and the bus was collecting us at 6.25am.

I was in autopilot, glad that we had everything organised last night and I didn’t have to do any thinking. Once the breakfast kicked in, I was a bit more with it. We made good time, readying the van for our departure later and then walked over to the bus stop, where hordes of sightseers were milling about.  We were fortunate to be going with only one other couple, Wendy and Ross.

We were ushered onto a waiting bus and driven about 10min out to the Yellow Water where we boarded our fishing vessel and proceeded to wait for our guide. The sky was just starting to let go of its black velvet curtain, lighting up with purples, pinks and golds. It was certainly a magical time to be out.

Rob, our guide finally joined us and we began our cruised out into the billabong making our way to a spot that was home to a large 4m male croc, happily cruising along in the water.

I was far more interested in taking photos, but seeing I had paid $150 to fish, I was happy to give it a go. Rob could see I had absolutely no idea, so he spent a fair bit of time with me, teaching me the finer details before leaving me to it.

We all bobbed along in this spot, but nothing was biting. A sea eagle watched over proceedings, probably hoping to swoop in and help himself to anything small we caught, but he was out of luck.

We moved on to  another spot, where Rob pulled in a small Barra but again nothing was wanting to catch our lure no matter where we cast it. Our next spot was a little more successful. We backed into a tight area, disturbing a female croc who was swimming about in the weeds. She kept her distance and we tried not to cast near her. There were plenty of different birds here as well, so again I was out with the camera before taking the line again.

Wendy was the first to hook a 57cm Barra. Paul caught one next but it was just a small one and he had to throw it back. His first caught on a line barramundi. He did however catch a 58cm shortly after and it was a keeper YAY!

I had a few chasing my lure but nothing that I could catch on my hook, but it was fun to try. The female croc was getting a little agitated with our presence, obviously wanting to move to behind the boat, so we made our way to another spot.

I was still flicking the line back nothing was too interesting. Ross hooked a saratoga that was a good size, but it was released as they aren’t good eating. Paul then had another strike and wheeled in another Barra, but unfortunately it was 2cm short of the 55cm size limit and it had to go back. BUM. I had more sightings of fish near my lure but they just wouldn’t jump on so I came away empty handed, but I had still enjoyed my morning.

We were back at the dock by 9.45am and Rob drove us back to camp and kindly filleted and skinned our fish. I recon there will be at least 3 meals worth.  We then said our goodbyes, returned to the van and made our way out, stopping again at the fish station, as an eagle had come in to clean up the mess.

We were finally back on the Kakadu Highway for 10.15am and heading to Gunlom Waterfall about 90km down the road. The trip was uneventful. We watched the landscape float by and the birds sail around on the prevailing winds. Rock face escarpments dominated the horizon and savannah bushland peeled away from the road.

We passed the turn off to the waterfall, venturing on an extra 2km to the ranger station. Here we parked the van and unloaded the car, grabbed our things and then returned to the Gunlom turn off and made our way a further 35km on gravel to the falls car park. I am glad we left the van behind, as the road needed grading in many areas and it was a rough and bumpy journey. We passed a few hire vans going so slowly. I was surprised they were attempting it, as they are technically not allowed to travel on more than 10km of dirt.

Once at the car park, we grabbed our lunch bag and found a table to enjoy it at. We then changed into our bathers, read the info about the 2km, steep, rocky walk to the top rock pools and began our climb. It was certainly an effort. The path was a glorified goat track of rock that my little legs had trouble navigating at parts.

We reached the first lookout, admired the view and pressed on. If you looked up you were bamboozled by the sheerness. There were times I had to stop, examine the landscape and then work out where the path was. The second lookout however exposed what it was we had made the trek for, not only a great view back over the car park and beyond, but behind us, three beautiful clear plunge pools.

I hurried my way down the rocks, descending to the edges of the pool. Paul was in quick but I took some photos first before joining him. We made our way to the waterfall shooting over the edge. The water from it was warmer than the pool we were in that was a little bracing when I first slid in. We perched on a rock before making our way back to the edge and into the next pool. This one was not very deep and had a white sandy bottom to walk on. Little fish darted around us as we made our way to the next plunge pool. This was the best spot, a natural infinity pool, where you could sit on the edge of the rock and admire the view. A very kind man offered to take some photos of us sitting on the edge, which was lovely.  

We took in the majesty of the view, marveling at the spectacular landscape and commenting would you want to be anywhere else right now.

After getting out, we clambered over the rocks where we could see the large plunge pool at the bottom as the waterfall cascaded away. It truly was worth the effort to get up to this spot and we made sure we told everyone as we passed them on our way down, looking hot and frazzled, that it was so worth it.

Once back at the bottom, we walked around to the large pool at the bottom of the waterfall to check the view from there. We could see people walking along the top rim, but they ducked away before I took the photo.

After taking in the view, we were back in the car and on the dirt road heading back to our parked van. Once there, the car went back on and we made our way south, heading in the direction of Edith Falls, a place we visited on the 18 May.

The road was somewhat more twisty and dropped away in stages. A group of Water Buffalo were grazing by the side of the road, their massive horns a striking feature. We slowed down to take photos before they got nervous and took off for the bush.

I continued to write the blog as we travelled along, watching the km’s tick away and by 4pm we turned into the Edith Falls Road. We didn’t get far as a flashing sign told us the caravan park was full. Fortunately we were next to a clearing that was being used by a couple of other campers and we pulled in there instead. 

We set up for the night, then sat back and relaxed. I went through all the photos taken today while Paul cooked up the first bag of the barra caught today. We ate dinner at 5.30pm, early by our recent standards, but considering we were up early dinner was not early at all.

After finishing dinner, I took photos of the sunset leaving streaks of colour across the sky and then we kicked back reading and listening to the Ipod before we retreated to bed. Hopefully we won’t be up as early tomorrow.

Day 155 - Thursday 1 June - Kakadu

Day 155

Thursday

1 June 2017

Cooinda – Nourlangi – Mirrai Lookout

Hard to believe we are into June already, time is slipping away but there is still so much more to see and do.

We weren’t in any great hurry this morning, happy to laze around before finally crawling out of bed, going for a shower and having breakfast. We read the Kakadu tourist guide given to us when we paid our fees, using it to determine where we would head today. As has become our usual, we make our way to the furthest point and then work our way back to home. Today we would begin at Nourlangi

The traditional owners, the Gundjeihmi refer to the upper section of this region as Burrunggul. There are a great many rock art sites to explore as you walk the 1.5km circular walking track.

We parked the car and then followed the path before heading up the rocks and into a rock shelter. The walls of the shelter were painted with various images that were in differing degrees of decay. 

We continued on finding more rock art as we followed the path. We passed into lovely shaded, tropical groves that kept us cool as we made our way further on. Some of the artwork we came across was very impressive and very clear, even though it was thousands of years old. 

The walk finished with a climb to the Gunwarddehwardde Lookout. From here we had fantastic views of the escarpment in the distance, where you could see how rugged the land is. Much of the Kakadu is inaccessible and the only way to experience it is by air, maybe next time. 

We returned to the car and drove on to the lower section known as Anbangbang. There was a billabong that we could check out, but unfortunately the road was closed part way down. We were still able to get out and have a short walk between picnic tables and check out the waterlily covered pond and the bird life calling this spot home.

Our next stop was the Mirrai Lookout a 2km return walk to a platform at the top of Mount Cahill. We knew it would be a steep one, but we were ready for it, though our legs were a little bemused. We didn’t find the climb too difficult, though I had to stop for some deep breaths every now and again. The view at the top wasn’t that fabulous as the trees had grown significantly obscuring the view but it was still good exercise. 

Getting closer to lunch, we made our way to Jim Jim Billabong, but first we had to run the gauntlet of fire. During the dry season the land is managed through the use of fire. It is not usually a big deal, we have often passed smouldering patches on our travels, but this time it was raging and the smoke was thick. As we passed through it, I could feel the heat radiate through the glass and warm me up, it wasn’t particularly pleasant and I felt a little unnerved but it was over in 5 seconds. It certainly gives you an appreciation for what people go through when they are threatened by fire.

We turned into the Jim Jim Billbong only to find it closed to traffic as it much of the park at the moment. Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls are two icons of the park but they are still closed due to the BIG wet they had this year. It wouldn’t have helped us if they were open, as it is 4WD access only anyway.

With our touring over, we returned to the park, noticing a dingo skirting the fire just waiting for some poor unsuspecting animal to flee and become his lunch. We unpacked the car and then had lunch. I was feeling particularly tired so opted to lay down, load the pics and watch a dvd for the afternoon.

At 3pm we took a very short drive to the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre and had a wander around their exhibit about the people of Kakadu and how they live. It was very interesting.

When we returned. Paul put the car on the trailer and then we made our way to the quiet pool for a swim. It was so cold but we braved the water any way and had a splash about.

With all that swimming we figured we deserved a drink, so we changed out of our bathers and made our way to the bar for a quiet drink. There weren’t as many people here as yesterday, probably a little early for the rush.

We finished our drink, then returned to our patch, sitting outside to read and enjoy the golden glow as it began to fade. Before the mozzies came out, we made our way back into the van and began sorting our dinner.

After eating we continued to read, though we opted for an early night knowing we would be up in the dark tomorrow. 

Day 154 - Wednesday 31 May - On the move

Day 154

Wednesday

31 May 2017 – Started Before I Met You by Lisa Jewell. I picked this up at a caravan park and thought it looked reasonable. Guess I will find out.

Darwin – Jabiru – Bowali Visitor Centre – Cooinda

On the move again. We have been standing still for so long I have forgotten what it feels like to be on the road.  It does start early, breakfast and shower then the mad dash to put everything away in its travelling place. 

Paul moved the car outside and then the van. I dropped in to reception to check if our parcel had arrived, no. Bugger! I asked the reception staff to hold it and await instructions for forwarding.  Lets hope it gets to us eventually.

Paul was busy loading the car at the end of the cul-de-sac, where it was level, straight and out of the way.

Once everything was on, we set the GPS for Jabiru and began the three hour journey along the Arnhem Highway. The first half, we travelled over the same route taken to get out to the Corroboree Billabong and then it was new road to travel. There wasn’t a lot to see, the occasional large puddle with water lilies and probably countless unseen crocs, a few creek crossings with signs saying crocs live here and a very large (in length and girth) dead snake, along the numerous birds of prey cleaning up the carnage.

We made our way to Jabiru for 12.30, stopping to fuel up for the second time today and then moved to a car park where we stopped to eat our lunch. Mum jagged calling, so we had a quick chat and gave her our plans.  We then continued on, passing the infamous crocodile shaped hotel.

We left Jabiru, back tracking slightly before turning onto Kakadu Highway and making our way to our next destination, the Bowali Visitor Centre. Here we could pick up our 7 day park pass, $40 pp. Yikes. Hopefully we can on sell this. 

We walked through the interpretive centre, reading up on the landscape and the animals we could encounter while in Kakadu and then we returned to the car and drove on to Cooinda, a small stop in the heart of Yellow Water, an icon of Kakadu.

We drove into Cooinda Resort, checked in at reception and then made our way to the space specified, choosing our own site to set up at. We chose the one right at the end and facing on to the bush this allowed us to feel like we were the only ones there.

Once the set up was complete, I returned to the office to let them know the site number and to book in for a fishing charter, $150pp for 3 hours and it will be an early one as they pick up at 6.25am for Friday. I am going along to take photos but will also give the fishing a go. I want to catch the barra before Paul! The competition will be on.

I returned to the van and we donned the bathers and went for a walk to the large lagoon pool. It was quite cool in, but refreshing after a while.  We then did a quick explore of the complex, checking the bar and restaurant and coming across a smaller and less patronised pool, think that will be our spot next time. 

We made our way back to the van, sitting outside, after dowsing ourselves in Aeroguard. From here you could here the calls of different birds and the unmistakeable thumping of a kangaroo or wallaby as it passed by in the bush.  It was so peaceful.

I had noticed there was a boardwalk walk with in the park, so we set off to find it. We found the jetty at the Home Billabong, walking the path down to it. Rainbow bee eaters and willy wag tails were fluttering about as we approached. 

Unfortunately you couldn’t get out on the small pontoon jetty so we had to take in the view across the water of the billabong, all the time I was scanning for crocs.  

We did a walk of the perimeter of the resort, but did not find the boardwalk, so we returned to the bar for a drink before we started getting hungry watching the food come out from the kitchen.

Back at the van we cooked up some of the fish Paul had caught before relaxing for the evening.

Day 152 - Monday 29 May - Keeping ourselves entertained

Day 152

Monday

29 May 2017

Darwin

And so the week begins again. I am starting to get cabin fever, not with the van, but with staying in the one place, 12 days it will be by the time we hit the road again.

We started our day with a lay in and reading our books before lazily crawling out of bed and having breakfast. We pottered around before going to Chemist Warehouse for some supplies and when we returned we put the bike on the trailer ready for our departure. As we did so a nosey neighbour came by for a chat. He needed to put on more clothes. I am not sure how his bathers were being held up and nor do I want to know.

I then made my way to the pool to sit on a sun lounger and use the free and super slow internet. Paul joined me shortly after he had changed his book at the exchange. I didn’t do as much as I could and a fair bit was sorted via tethering to my phone internet. I figure I am paying for 9gb of data a month and as it runs out in 2 days I should be using it as well.

We returned to the van just after 11am, gathered our things and took ourselves off to the East Point Reserve that is situated along Fannie Bay. We parked at the first park and got out to walk along the footpath and increase our step count.  It was lovely wandering along as it wasn’t too hot and there was quite a pleasant breeze. We walked as far as the Alexander Lake, being mooned by a man in a g string and then a girl who was insisting on bending over to look at something fascinating on the beach. We couldn’t help but laugh. 

I received a call from the air con mob, CTM, confirming the part had arrived and would be installed tomorrow arvo, thank goodness and Paul heard from Darryl, looks like we wouldn’t be catching up as planned.

Once we had returned to the car, we drove further along the road to the East Point. At this spot there is a military museum as well as a large grassed oval with the remnants of gun emplacements from WWII. We did a wander around the park and walked up the large, round, concrete structure where a large gun had once been in place. 

We then drove around to a park to take in the views over Fannie Bay. I found a beautiful red-faced finch to take photos of and then noticed so many dragonflies. They had shimmery bronze and gold striped wings that were just dazzling in the sun.  I later found out they are tiger wing or graphic flutterer. 

From this location we also had a good view of an American Navy vessel floating in the waters, as well as the smoke billowing out from fires on the horizon and a view of Darwin City.

We returned to the car and headed home, as Paul was in need of lunch. I made up our sandwiches and then we proceeded to flake out for the afternoon, reading and watching DVDs.

At 3.30pm we wandered back to the pool ready to cool off. It was the first time that the pool was quite busy, but we managed to find ourselves a space and cool down before making it back to the van.

I sat outside and read my book, enjoying the peace. Paul started off inside but joined me after a while. It was a little hard to concentrate on the reading with our neighbours gathered nearby having four o’clock drinks and nibbles.

As the bugs began to appear, we retreated inside, making dinner before deciding to get our steps up further by driving in to town, parking at the multi-storey and then walking into the city.

It was much quieter by the waterfront than it was on Saturday night and the town itself wasn’t much different. It wasn’t until we reached Mitchell Street (Pub St) that there was more action. As we passed Monsoon’s we were given free drink cards. We kept walking but inspected what we were given and decided we would do a lap of the block and return for our free drink.

We made our way down Smith Street and then rounded back to Monsoon’s, joining the large number of American Sailors frequenting the bar also. We ordered our free drinks then sat near the front. I heard a stat on the radio today about the level of smokers in the NT, 23%, this is double the national average and you could certainly see it on show here. I can’t stand it, It makes me physically ill being around it. It is such a despicable habit.

When our glasses were empty, we made our way back to the car, had a fight with the parking meter ticket reader that did not want to read our ticket at first and then made our way back. Once back it was time to lay on the bed in front of the fan and try and get cool as we read before lights out.