Day 27 - Monday 30 July - Exploring Derby

Day 27

Monday

30 July

Derby

With not much planned for today, we were in no hurry to move out of bed. I was happy to read my book for a while, then eventually we peeled ourselves from the covers and got into breakfast. There was lots of movement around us, with many vans moving on. I surfed the net, added some photos with the last amounts of my data and had messenger chat with Claire. 

At 9am, we figured we should get out and see the town, so we grabbed our things and made it to the street. We wandered out to the main road and then on to the tourist info centre to garner info about heading to WIndjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek. We were told it was open to all vehicles but 4wd was recommended. I thought they didn’t know how tough our Getz was and the roads we have already travelled with it. With 20km of dirt from the main road to WIndjana, we figured we would risk it, just not today. 

We completed a loop around the small town and back to the park, before getting in the car to head out to the Boab prison tree. We reached right at high tourist time, with 2 bus loads having arrived and dumping visitors. Great. We waited patiently and then did the walk around. Paul was disappointed it was fenced in and we couldn’t go inside the tree, that used to house up to 14 odd prisoners.  

We then checked out the Myall’s bore and the 150m cattle trough, used in the early 1900’s when cattle were driven across land to Derby. There was plenty of water being pumped up by the windmill, pretty impressive seeing it is over 300m below the surface. 

I watched a lone red tailed cockatoo in the trees, spreading its tail and wings, busily calling out for others to respond, but none did. It wasn’t long before it took to the sky.  

We made our way back to the car and decided to head on to Mowanjum Art & Cultural centre, a 4km drive up the Gibb River Road. We pulled in to the complex and entered the centre, being offered the opportunity to watch a 20min video first about the Wandjina and its importance to the people of the West Kimberley. 

After the video, we wandered the gallery, admiring the various paintings, there were some truly beautiful pieces on display. I checked out the gift shop and in the end bought a children’s book written in English and the language of the area. 

With our touring over, we made our way back to town, driving past the golf course. It looked in really good condition and with grass greens, so Paul was keen to play a round after lunch. Once back at the van, we enjoyed some down time. I set the chairs up outside and promptly plonked into mine, enjoying the cool breeze as I watched new vans arrive. 

An hour later, I made lunch and then we made our way out to the Boabs Golf Course. We had the place to ourselves, which meant Paul was able to play two balls. The course is luscious and green, but if you dig too far under the surface it is solid red. The racecourse feeds around and through the various holes and Boabs line the course as well as act as obstacles. 

We walked 10 holes, admiring the different boab trees, including the infamous 5 fingered lady, collected boab nuts and even cracked one open to try. It was very dry and like eating Styrofoam. Red tail cockies were inhabiting one of the trees as we went by and I stopped my caddying duty to take photos. There were also many dessert roses at the 19^thhole to check out too. 

We finished the round and drove on to the BWS for supplies, before making our way back to the van for a well-earned cold drink and a sit down. I enjoyed the cool outdoors, while going through the photos and when Paul eventually joined me, we brought out the nibbles and past time chatting and watching the newbies arrive. 

Paul eventually went for a shower and I completed the blog. When he returned, it was my turn to clean up. We weren’t hungry for dinner after scoffing the box of cheezles and were happy to sit around listening to Ronny, our neighbour as he sat busily fixing his trailer connection. 

It got dark quick and we decided we better have dinner, neither of us really wanted to eat much, but the steak was out and defrosted. We cooked it up and ate and then figured we should go for a walk to settle the belly. We stood by the old lightning struck boab and admired the stars and Milky Way. 

When we returned, we did a quick walk of the park, coming across our Exmouth tour buddies and the random bagpiper who has been serenading the park while we have been here. He insisted on giving Paul the pipes and hat so he could take a photo of him. 

We returned to sit out the front of the van, continuing to chat with the neighbours, until I couldn’t stop yawning. Taking it as my cue to leave the conversation and head to bed, which we both did. 

Day 26 - Sunday 29 July - On to the home of the Boab

Day 26

Sunday

29 July

Barn Hill Station - Derby

Another day and another destination. I was up at what I thought was 7.20am, only to see my phone telling me it was actually 6.40am and with that info promptly returned to bed until the real 7.15am came along and we both clambered out of bed. 

Dressed, breakfast and the van ready, we loaded the car onto the slightly demented trailer and began the 9km trek out of the station. 30min it took us, what with 3 gates, the first of which we thought we were going to bog the van in the soft sand and then all the damn corrugations to follow. We were lucky to do more than 20km/ph. The third gate was a godsend, as the highway was only 100m away and we were so glad to be on a flat surface and in one piece. 

Heading north once again, our destination of Derby only 275km up the road. I used the time to go through the photos. The scene outside was much of a muchness; green scrub for a fair bit, open plains were cattle were roaming in the thousands, a couple of brolgas and even some water. Lush compared to Paul’s last visit. 

At 9.45am, we reached the T-junction; left 30km to Broome and right, 180km to Derby. There was a BP at the intersection, so we fuelled up the van, seeing the guy who had helped us with the trailer back at Nanutarra. Then we made the right, straight into a sign posted rough road patch. Judging by the pot holes and the moist looking dirt by the side of the road, there had been plenty of rain through. 

Unfortunately, there were plenty more rough road signs to come and even when there was no sign, the roads weren’t the best. We could be back in Queensland. We crossed over a couple of 1 lane bridges, Willare and Minnie. There was quiet a bitter of water about in Cockatoo Creek and the Fitzroy River.

We eventually reached the Savannah Way, a road stretching from Broome to Cairns, much of it we had travelled last year. We passed the Gibb River Road turn off and then sailed into Derby, arriving at the Kimberley Entrance Caravan Park just before 12. I signed in and then joined Paul, who had a hell of a job with the car. It had moved significantly in our travels, no doubt during the first 9km and the strap was tangled. I eventually had to drive it off bit by bit, as Paul pulled the strap free. Once that was done we were able to find our spot and set up camp for the next 4 nights. 

I made lunch and we took 5, before we wrote up a shopping list and drove the couple of K’s to the Woollies and picked up some needed supplies. We brought our shopping home, before embarking on a tour of the town site. I was awe struck by the boab trees and wanted to stop and each one, Paul could tell it was going to be a long outing. 

We found the Dinner tree, where we would return for sunset and then made our way to the jetty to see what was biting, as usual not much. We walked as far as we were allowed looking out over the murky water. There were plenty of whistling kites about and the place reminded me of Karumba in QLD. 

We checked out the rotunda and the mosaic flooring before continuing along the water’s edge to see what the locals were catching, again not much. I was more interested in the kites that were roosting on the electrical wires. 

We drove to the centre of town, boabs line the centre median strip and make quite a statement. We wandered over to the tourist info, but it was closed. We took some photos of a giant boab tree that I just hug to hug and then we made our way back to the caravan park for another rest and a nice warm shower. 

We sat about in the van watching new arrivals enter by the dozens, red and dusty and fresh off the Gibb River Road. We then went for a walk outside of the park to a boab tree that had been struck by lightning and was hollowed out. It was very cool and great to take interesting photos. 

We did a wander around the park, coming across an old International bus just like our old one, we couldn’t help but check it out. We continued the loop, saying hello to the other residents. I found more boabs to photograph and then for something different white peacocks.

We were back at the van for 5pm and into the car so that we could get to the Dinner Tree for sunset. We had the place to ourselves, except for the locals in cars who were heading out on the tidal flats and stirring up the dust. We hung around for 30min, watching the sun slowly set as I took the shots I wanted. We then returned home for dinner. 

I got to working on the photos that were taken and eating pancakes at the same time. Paul made his way to bed for just after 8pm and once I had finished up, I joined him, ready for a good rest. 

Day 25 - Saturday 28 July - Making the most of Barn Hill

Day 25

Saturday

28 July

Barn Hill Station

We woke to a cloudy and overcast day which didn’t invite us to get up too early. Paul was happy to read his book, but I ended up getting up when the clock clicked over 8am. I sorted breakfast and then got busy entering a photographic competition with The Heart of Our Outback which closes on the 1^stAugust. 

I was happy to then sit about and surf the net. The photo I put up on Station Hoppers FB page yesterday had reached over 800 likes, I guess it was a decent shot ad is nice to get the feedback. I sorted through the June photos, finally reaching Queensland. Almost halfway through the trip. I am so glad I have the time to sort through them all. 

At 9.45am we were ready to face the world and made our way to the stairs once more and down on to the beach. We made our way towards the fishing spot, checking on the progress of those fishing. Just like yesterday, not much was biting. 

We didn’t have a set spot for stopping and in the end, we walked all the way to the point and the legs were burning. We took time to sit and enjoy the view, the high tide waves crashing in around us. It truly is a beautiful spot to explore. 

Once rested, we were ready to continue the homeward stretch, passing the familiar rock landmarks. Looking to the water, something took my attention and shortly after resurfaced, a dugong. While it took a while to dive back under, it was too quick for me to get the camera in action, bugger! 

We passed a few of the fishermen once again, still with little to talk about. As the tide was at its peak, we had to scramble over the rocks, picking our time, so that we didn’t encounter any large waves. We eventually made it back to the staircase and van, weary but glad for the long walk. 

It was already 12.15pm and we were well and truly ready for lunch and a good lay down. We were happy for the break in proceedings for a while. I found time to make a pancake batter for dessert and then we walked around the camp in search of the dump point. 

We returned to the van and played cards to keep ourselves amused, but by 3pm we were ready to get out again. Our first stop was for an icecream and then it was back on the beach and walking south as far as we could. It was another glorious arvo and would have sacrilegious to have spent it in the van. 

We returned to the top of the stairs and proceeded to sit on the bench and enjoy the view. We chatted to different people as they came and went and then made our way back to the van, but only for a short while, as come 5pm I was back on the beach enjoying one last sunset. 

I took photos, as the sun disappeared and for the final time, we made our way up the stairs and back to the van to start on dinner. I rang home and caught up on the gossip, as I cooked the meal. We then sat to enjoy the dinner and the pancake dessert.

I trawled through the photos taken, before finally turning the electronics off and heading for bed to read. 

Day 24 - Friday 27 July - Sitting Pretty in Roebuck Bay

Day 24

Friday

27 July

Barn Hill Station

I was happy to stay in bed and rest. Paul was reading for a fair while, but I was keen for the extra couple of hours of shut eye, eventually rolling over just after 8am. I didn’t continue the lay in, crawling out not long after and getting into breakfast. 

We did a net check, wished Damon and Michael a happy birthday, messaged Dad, he has two more lambs, and then readied ourselves to start the day. Paul had his fishing gear all organised and was keen to get to the shore just before high tide kicked in at 10ish. 

I grabbed the camera and the esky and we made our way down the stairs and onto the sand, walking, as instructed by a friend, to the right of the rocks and set up amongst the other fishers. I perched on the esky surveying the landscape and the people out enjoying a beach walk. It was warm today and not as windy, perfect conditions for fishing, but someone forgot to give them the message. 

Paul tried all the different baits he had, but they weren’t even touched, which was rather disheartening. I got more enjoyment out of watching the breaching whales dancing above the water and then fin slapping the surface, sending great geysers into the air around them. 

We gave up on the fishing and returned to the van for 1030am. I was happy to go off and have a shower in the roofless amenities, while Paul got busy swapping over the trailer tyres and then the tyre pressure sensors. I returned to the computer, looking through the photos and just catching up on stuff. 

We had lunch and then opted to head to the beach for a wander of the southern end. The beach was absolutely deserted by the time we got there, all the oldies off having their afternoon naps. We walked the length of the beach admiring the rock formations, colours and textures. 

Paul found a half dozen crazy crabs, that he collected and then let go, so that I could take photos of them as they scurried away. They were funny to watch, pulling down the hatches of their shells the minute trouble was smelt. 

We made our way back towards the van, people now out scouring the beach. We had spotted a turtle on our way down the beach, but saw no signs of life on our return, not even the 4.5m croc that was about yesterday. 

Once we were back at the van, I went off to the shop and bought a couple of icecreams to enjoy quickly before they melted. We hung out in the van for the next hour, the fan on, as it was quite warm. By 4pm I was thinking about being on the move again, wanting to catch the golden light of sunset. 

I left Paul and made my way down to the beach, heading for the pinnacles. There were plenty of people on the beach now, enjoying the glorious afternoon. I took photos of the various rock structures that took my eye, some even forming interesting shapes that I was giving nicknames too. 

Paul eventually found me on the beach, he had his bucket and was out looking for crabs to use as bait. 5pm came and the sun was well and truly on its way out. I was happy to hang in the one spot waiting for the dusky light, so Paul went back to the flat rocks to scour for more crabs. 

I was rewarded for my patience, with the colour changing and the full moon appearing between the pinnacles. Yippee. I snapped away, hoping to take a winner. Once the sun had disappeared it began to get dark quick and I was conscious I was on the beach alone. I packed up my gear and made for home. Paul was still on the rocks, so I met up with him at the bend and we walked back to the van together, just beating the dark.

Once in, I put dinner together and loaded the photos at the same time. We ate and then I set about going through the photos, there were a handful of good ones to work with. The night began to slip away and before too long, my eyes were beginning to fade and I knew it was time to give up the computer work and retire to read until sleep arrived.  

Day 23 - Thursday 26 July - Barn Hill Station Stay on Roebuck Bay

Day 23

Thursday

26 July

80 Mile Beach – Barn Hill Station

6.20am I was up and going to the loo. The sun was just cracking the eastern horizon and I made the mistake of checking it out from the top of the hill before returning to the van. It was too lovely to waste, so I told Paul I was off for a walk. 

I grabbed my camera and returned to the beach. Only a few people could be seen, mainly women with bags ready to fill with their daily pickings of shells. They are eager to get out and see what treasures the tide has brought in overnight. 

The shells make quite a noise as they tumble about in the rolling surf, before being deposited on the sandy bank. I wasn’t out to look for shells, just happy to be out in the early morning light, watching the waves roll in, the birds frolic in the shallows and checking out the interesting patterns on the sand. 

When my watch said 7am, I turned around and made my way back, eyes down, as the sun’s glare was too great to deal with. I was back by 7.15am and Paul was up eating breakfast. I joined him and then it was into work mode. At 7.45am, an early one, we were negotiating the ridiculous corrugations once again. 

We were glad when the highway presented itself and we could return to flat road and a smoother ride. Blue sky, green and black scrub with a dash of purple and the red dirt reached out before us. 

We stopped at Sandfire road house for fuel and not long after the sign said 310km to Broome. The Roebuck Plains stretched out around us. We saw cattle heading to somewhere, a large wedge tail eagle and a small skippy that bounded across the road in front of us. All the while I was going through last year’s photos, finishing up to the end of May. It has been fun going back over them all, I am glad I have had the spare time to go through the collection and begin whittling down the shots into albums. 

The plains gave way to tall scrub again. There has obviously been plenty of rain up here too, as the place is still very green and lush looking, except for a section 200km short of Broome where a fire had gone through scorching the earth. We had plenty of vehicles passing us heading south, silly buggers. Our journey was relatively unimpeded by traffic making for an easy run up. 

1030am and we had reached the big white tyre signalling the entrance to Barn Hill Station, Broome only 120km up the road. We pulled onto the red stuff once again, opened and closed the gate and then began the 9km journey sea ward, corrugations to enjoy once more, not! 

A few extra gates and we finally found the caravan park perched on the cliff overlooking the blue water beyond. I paid our $105 fee, was given directions and then relayed these to Paul as we drove around to our site. Having to back in, we began to take the car off, when disaster struck once again. This time Paul had forgotten to remove the safety chain and as the car rolled back so did the metal base that the tyre sits on. I was yelling stop and Paul put on the brakes getting out to inspect the damage. Expletives galore, he took a deep breath, continued to take the car off and move the van in to place and set up, before tackling the new problem. I told him he likes playing MacGyver, creating new problems, so that he can invent bright new ways to fix the problem. This time a long jimmy bar came out and he swung around on the end until it was kind of back in shape. Sheesh!!

Needing a circuit breaker, we closed up and went for a walk. We were told we shouldn’t go swimming as a large croc had been lurking in the waters. I wasn’t planning on it anyway, but now it was completely off the list. 

The beach is a little harder to get to than 80 mile. There is a set of stairs to traverse and once on the beach it is a fairly easy walk. We wandered up the beach, me immediately taken by the vibrancy of the colours; blues and oranges on max intensity and that is in the middle of the day when the colours are generally washed out. 

We walked until Paul had calmed and then returned to the van, both of us ready for lunch. We sat around after, enjoying the view from our van over the water. I read a few tourist pamphlets and then had a look at the banking, noticing an anomaly and having to ring ANZ to have it looked into. 

We were then ready to head out for another wander, this time through the park. There were plenty taking advantage of the free lawn bowl and as many watching in the make shift galleries. It was certainly keeping the oldies amused. We continued on through the generator area and found the goat track that also takes you down to the beach, though it took us a while to work it out and we ended up wandering along much of the cliff top first. It did give a good view. 

Working out the path, we made our way down to the beach once more, this time near the rock formation, “The Pinnacles.” We were happy to just walk, so continued up the beach, continuing to be amazed by the rock structures, whethering, textures and colours. We were also happy to pick up the odd flat rock and shell to add to the collection.  

We walked a fair distance before deciding to turn around and return. The sea was being claimed by the tides once more and we were able to clamber over rocks that were hidden during our first walk. So many rock pools were left behind and they were interesting to look into and watch little fish dart about. They were also great place to paddle and cool off. 

Once back at the van, I set about going through the photos taken. Paul took the time to read quietly before organising his fishing gear for tomorrow and checking on the crabs he had attempted to keep alive, they weren’t. 

The sun was beginning to dip and I figured I should head out to a spot that I could take some more pics. The rocks at the shore line were well exposed now and we were able to clamber about them. They offered an ideal spot to take photos of the dipping sun. Paul wandered off to check on the fishermen further up the beach. 

Once the sun had disappeared, the sky came alive with pinks and purples which set off the red rocks brilliantly. I stood there admiring the scene and the almost full moon blazing above. It was truly magical. 

We returned to the van and got straight into dinner. Paul had located the rego check company taking our money and we finally got an answer and a guaranteed return of our funds, fingers crossed it happens. 

We spent the evening enjoying the music offered up on the Ipod, surfing the net and reading all before turning the lights out on another gorgeous day.