Day 17
Friday
20 July
Dampier – Burrup Peninsula – Karratha
The thrum of the iron ore conveyer belt continued all evening, in fact it never stopped, it was just there as background noise, telling us life goes on even when we are shut down. Paul was off to the loo at 7.30am and returned to me saying we should get up and go for a walk, so we did. We crossed the road and wandered along the beach, much of it was just rocky boulders. It was a pleasant way to start the morning. We even got chatting to a local charter runner, who gave us a few tips, including checking out the Pluto LNG plant.
We returned for breakfast and cleaned up, gathered our required things, piled into the car and made our way towards the Burrup peninsula. First stop however, was the Red Dog statue welcoming you to Dampier. We had seen the film a few years back and heard stories from friends who had come across red dog in their travels, so we couldn’t not stop to check it out.
We then continued on our way, following the signs to the Burrup and then out the Hearson’s Cove Road. We made a right at the Deep Gorge turn off and travelled up the short, bumpy gravel road, parking in the designated area and then heading up the path. A small tour with aboriginal rangers was taking place, so we were able to listen in for part of it.
We stood in front of a giant pile of red rocks, staring. If you didn’t take the time you would think it was just rocks, but then pictures pop out at you carved into the grainy red surfaces; a kangaroo, emu, arrows, whirlpool, men. The more you concentrate the more you see.
We followed the path into the gorge, there were some stagnant pools of water and little else. Great white gums followed the carved creek and boulders lined the sides. People pointed and stood just looking at the gallery of pictures before them. It was like a giant picture hunt.
We walked a good couple of hundred metres into the gorge, satisfied we had seen what the place had to offer and then made our way back the way we had come and returned to the car. We made our way on to Hearson’s Cove, stopping in the beach carpark. The beach had deserted us, the tide having pulled it out to sea. We had a quick snack and then continued on our way up to the Pluto plant.
We again parked in the parking area and made our way to the visitor’s centre to be confronted with “Visitor’s Centre closed.” Bugger. We checked the plant from the forecourt, a huge expanse of buildings and pipes, steel and gleaming and then decided to drive on the Withnell Bay. From here we could see the other side of the plant along with a large blue bay, but no beach to get to.
With all our options ticked off, we drove on to Karratha, following the ring road through the suburbs. Some of the newer estates look like anything you would find in Perth, while the older area of town is run down and shabby. We eventually ended up at Sea Ripple Lookout, where we stopped and had lunch overlooking the ocean.
We continued our ring route, eventually ending up at TV lookout, a hill looking out over all Karratha and then we finished off at Woollies before making our way back towards Dampier. Salt mines line the road and there was a lookout, so we stopped to check out the large expanse of glistening white ponds. Some of the smaller ponds lining the road, have statues and other silly things poked into them for a laugh.
We took the tourist road around Dampier and stopped at William Dampier Lookout where you had a good look over the bay, the salt mounds and a great number of Sturt Desert Peas. Happy we had seen it all, we returned to the van for 2pm and spent a lazy couple of hours sitting around reading and doing the computer bits.
Just after 4pm, Paul said we should get out and about, so we jumped back in the car and drove down to the boat ramp. We read the info boards and had a look around before making our way to the central hub. We walked about the community centre and shop, before stopping in at the Mermaid Hotel for a drink and to enjoy the sunset. I rang home, to let them know where we were, about our dramas and plans to catch up with the brother. One of their sheep dropped a lamb this morning, so they had been busy fussing over that.
Paul rang Ballsy and Jaden to fill them in on the events thus far and then we watched some of the Richmond game before returning to the van for the evening. I prepared the fish Paul had caught yesterday and then we ate. It was delicious.
After doing the clean up, we got ready to head across the road and check out the Iron ore plant and carriers under lights. Just as I stepped outside, I heard Paul screaming “oh bloody hell” and I turned around to see billowing smoke emanating from the van. I raced back to open windows, allowing the acrid, gasp inducing plume to escape. I had to keep stepping outside to take in great gasping breaths of clean air. Smoke was appearing from under the van in great wafts and I asked if we needed the extinguisher.
Turns out the 12v system shorted somehow and the wire’s plastic coating went up in flames. With every possible window and vent open, we locked up the van and headed across the road to take the photos as planned, hoping the chemical stench would be gone by the time we came back.
It was somewhat better when we returned and I left Paul to investigate while I went for a shower. By the time I returned, he had isolated and cut wires to ensure there would be no shorting overnight turning us to crispy critters or while we were travelling tomorrow. Phew.
He then went for a shower and on return we both retired, exhausted after an eventful couple of days.
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