Day 220 - Saturday 5 August - WOW! Watch Out Whales

Day 220

Saturday

5 August 2017 –

Maryborough – Hervey Bay – Fraser Island

5.45am and the alarm bell was ringing but I was bright and bushy tailed and ready for our adventure. We were quick with the morning routine and in the car at 6.40am driving past fields where the blanket of fog was just beginning to lift and on to the Sandy Straits Marina ready for our day out on the water with Tasman Venture, whale watching off the Fraser Island Coast.

We located the charter easily and waited for our boarding call at 7.20am. Once all 19 of us were about the three crew, Nick, BJ and Charlie, ran through the usual safety briefing and run down of the day as we left the marina and made our way from the Great Sandy Straits and into Hervey Bay waters. It had been bright and sunny when we left but we could see the cloud built up on the horizon and shrouding Fraser Island. Nick tried to assure us it would all lift but we weren’t so sure.

We continued our sail north, skirting along the coast of Fraser Island and it wasn’t long before the engines came to a sudden stop and we began puttering along. Two juvenile Humbacks and a pod of dolphins had been spotted and we were off to take a closer look. They kept their distance at first, with us all ooh and aahing as they appeared on the surface and ducked away, they seemed annoyed with the dolphins presence. It wasn’t long though before they drew closer, popping their heads up (spy hopping) to check us out. We were told to make noise and wave, as this supposedly attracts them, it seemed to work even if we did feel like idiots calling giant dogs to heal.

We watched in awe as they playfully moved around the boat and then the call came for a swim. Everyone signed their lives away and donned the wetsuits, waiting for their opportunity, but by the time we were ready the whales had decided it was time to move on. Bum.

We followed along side for a while, before leaving them in peace and moving on to another stop and a larger group. There seemed to be some fun and games going on, with some chasing occurring and quick darting movements. It was great to watch as you just never knew where they would pop up next and then, if you were facing the right way, you would see a shape begin to emerge from the deep, sometimes it was dark, but if they had rolled over it was a pale aqua blue colour. If you were facing the wrong way they would scare the bejeezus out of you as they snorted water from their blowhole to herald their resurfacing.

As the crowds of onlookers on other boats and jet skis increased, we moved on again, there are only meant to be three watercraft near a pod at a time.

We stopped shortly after where another whale was happily dancing around a small dinghy carrying four people. The whale was easily larger than their craft and it was playfully circling and checking them out.

We took this as our cue to move to the shore, puling in at Awinya Creek on the western side of Fraser Island. Most of the activities, accommodation and sights are actually on the eastern side of the 124km by 23km island and I hope to return some day to check out the sights of this UNESCO listed land, the only sand island in the world.  

We made our way to the island on the tender boat “Sealegs”. It didn’t become apparent, the relevance of the name, until we reached the shallow shore and the three wheels were dropped and we drove up onto the beach. Paul immediately impressed, declared he wanted one for Christmas, but at $120 000 I don’t like his chances.

Once we were dropped off with the kayaks we were taken by Charlie to Awinya Creek. As we followed the sandy path we saw the tell tale sign of paw prints, dingoes. Fraser Island is known to have the purest bred dingoes of anywhere in Oz and we were told to be aware, though it was not likely we would see them.

We jumped into the kayaks and began our paddle down the fresh water Awinya Creek, passing through the mangrove swamp looking for fish and bird life. We paddled for about 500m before stopping to listen to Charlie talk about the area we then returned to the beach and a different group went for a paddle.

We were then onto the sea biscuit for a bit of hair-raising fun. Tied to the back of the sealegs vessel, sitting in a comfy blow-up lounge chair and hanging on for dear life, we were flung and twisted, jumped and bumped across the water and over the wake. Laughing and screaming all the way it was a great fun.

Once we were delivered safely to the beach, we went for a walk up the white sand. Fraser Island reminded me of Whitehaven Beach, not from this trip, but from 2000.  Three fishermen had found a shark’s head that looked as if it had been cut from the body. Paul took some photos of it and opened its mouth. It didn’t seem to have large teeth, nor many of them.

We located a lost frisbie disc floating in the water, so we claimed it as ours and began throwing it as we returned to the boat and were whisked back to the Tasman Venture to continue our journey.

We ate lunch as we got on the move, a good selection of cold meat and salad. It took me forever to eat as the whales popped in to say hi and I would abandon the plate and take up the camera to capture the encounter, in the meantime Paul had had thirds.

We eventually located a whale that was lolling about on the surface slapping its pectoral fin. The hydrophone was deployed and we were able to listen to the whale song resonating from below. Charlie, the marine biologist believed the slapper was a female and below her was a male singing his heart out to impress her.  

The fin slapping continued, one side for a half dozen times and then she would roll over and use the other fin as if she was resting up. It was so great to witness. Eventually she stopped and moved on and we did to.

We encountered three more juveniles swimming together that eventually split into a group of two that we followed for a while. One of the whales had distinctive marking across his lower spine and Charlie thought it was probably an injury caused by a propeller. It was obviously healed now but it gave it a stegosaurus appearance.

When the two moved on we returned to the shore, stopping this time at Woralie Creek. Here we were greeted by a dolphin feeding in the shallows and then it was the challenge of the sand dune. The white, powdery sand reminded me of snow as our feet disappeared into it.

It was a quad-burning climb to the top, but worth it for the views over Platypus Bay and the pristine white beach with aquamarine waters lapping at its shore. What a beautiful and idyllic spot. From this spot I finally had phone coverage and could post birthday wishes to Katie and Lou. I also had a missed call from my Brother wanting to Skype, seeing Dad was with him. Guess I missed that chance.

The descent was much quicker and easier than the ascent, though I was weary of putting a foot wrong and tumbling to the bottom in 3 seconds flat with a couple of good tumble rolls and ending as a giant sand ball. Paul jogged and I yelled to be careful, the last thing we needed was an injury, but he made it no problem.

We watched the dolphin chasing fish and a couple of the tourists attempting to swim with it. We then checked out the fresh water creek with the lovely stand of trees at its banks. It was peaceful and another great spot for 4WDs with camper trailers to park up for a week.

We returned to the boat for the last time ready to make the journey back to Sandy Straits Marina. We opted to hang out the lower cabin where it was warmer and the cheese and nibbles were being served. We talked to BJ and Charlie as they went about their duties. It was an easy run back, pulling in to the dock at 4.45pm.

We thanked the crew for a great day out and then walked to the car, making the 40min drive back to our Cheery Nomad campground. I was beat after our day in the fresh air and happy to finally hang out in the van.  Shortly after we arrived, a magnificent sunset illuminated the sky with deep pinks and purples that I couldn’t resist taking pictures

Once the sunset faded I was on to my first job. loading all the photos, 348. Eek! Once they were on and labelled, we got in to making dinner, both of us too knackered to really care and we just went through the motions of cooking and eating.

I text talked to Dad who was at the Perth International Airport ready to start the first leg of his 5 week European back packing adventure. Think there will be some funny stories to come as he travels alone like some 20 something hippie. Hopefully they will be funny ha ha not funny oh dear you didn’t.

With the photos finally sorted I left them to save and then organised myself for bed. I read for a while, but was so tired that the book soon went away, happy to call it a night.